ITALY DAY 13 - Lake Iseo

Although sadd that it was our final day, we were placated slightly be what was possibly the best breakfast yet and dosed-up well on cake. I may have slightly regretted this an hour or so later, when we were just a quarter of the way up what felt like a sheer rock face on our last day "easy walk".
A mere 400m of elevation gain at a similar gradient later, we were treated to unbeatable views in both directions of Lake Iseo. These I gratefully captured on camera, but was longing for the 20-something degrees of the mountains, rather than the 30-something degrees that seemed to prevail in the rest of Italy!
Thankfully our way down was somewhat shallower, finishing off with a short walk along the "coast road" when I picked out my next swimming spot.
This turned out to be fabulous - having found Trasimeno a bit warm and weedy and Garda rather wavy and refreshing, Iseo was the perfect balance of cool and flat. What an incredible swim, and the scenery looked just as gorgeous at Lake level.
Suitably hungry after a hike and swim, we procured lunch and picniced by the lake, making sure to save room for a last ice cream...
This ice cream (forest fruit and panna cotta in my case) was had by the river that fed lake, a peaceful setting to end our trip.

ITALY DAY 12 - Brenta Dolomites & Tonale pass

Up early to the usual cake overload, we made good time and had driven up to about 1500m high (the mid station of the Pra Radont lift) by 09:30.
Following the ski slope, we embarked on a very upward hike, glad of the cover of trees when we got it. The tree cover did have us nervously looking for bears though, and I was more than a little startled when a huge Alsation trotted along the path towards me! He appeared to be friendly however, along with his huge white friend, and we came across the owners a little higher up the mountain (ironically the owners were surprisingly small in size, especially compared to their dogs...).
Onwards and upwards we went, going back out onto the slopes and eventually onto a ridge, before topping out at the peak of the lift, some 2100m high!
The views were of course incredible, with green valleys spatter with pretty chalets as well as snow-capped peaks and rocky mountain faces.
Our downward trek was just as beautiful, and we were sorry to reach the car and drive on. However, the drive itself turned out to be very engaging, winding through more mountains and luscious river valleys.
Reaching the top of the Tonale pass, we just couldn't resist another exploratory ramble before leaving the mountains all together. This time I'll admit we cheated a little, taking the Paradise lift up to 2550m, then walking to see the glacial lakes and even get into contact with some snow (in shorts and a vest, obviously).
At 2700m we turned and made our way down, then drove downhill for what seemed like the entirety of the rest of our journey to Lake Iseo, our home for the night.
Here, our hotel provides us with views over the quiet, flat lake, a vista which included the mountains we had passed earlier as well as some quaint harbours and villages.

ITALY DAY 11 - Brenta Dolomites

Given the late night at the fireworks, we took the opportunity to lie-in, before heading out for a morning run. I managed a steady 10km along the (actually flowing!) river, with a backdrop of vineyards, cliffs and castles.
Breakfast was a nice treat for afterwards, and then we headed towards the hills - this time, the Brenta Dolomites. Parking in a lovely green wooded area, we embarked upon a walk which turned out to be 4 miles or so long.
The scenery was once again fantastic, with welcome pine forests for the ascent, opening out onto green meadows and the occasional quaint chalet.
At the top (1837m!) we had 360 views of the area - including me spotting some snow capped peaks! Exciting!

ITALY DAY 10 - Lake Garda

A reasonably early get up from our rather uninspiring accommodation at the South of Lake Garda had us driving up a mountain to what looked like a remote car park. Surprised to find a few cars there, we set off efficiently for the most wonderful hike!
Leaving the track for a grassy path, we wended our way through a sort of valley between villages. This was very green, grassy, and had lots of what we think were marmottes scurrying about between their holes (I had to whip out the big lens for the first time this holiday!)
When we finally reached the ridge, the views to either side were extraordinary. Italy has blessed us with clear, dry weather and we could see most of Lake Garda to on side, and some luscious looking valley to the other.
On th way down we countered the side of the hill enjoying the Garda views to the tree line, then relishing the shade. Having said that, it's much much cooler here than the rest of Italy, which is a refreshing change.
What was also refreshing was the lake itself. And rather wavy. My swim was exhilarating to say the least, enjoying the clear water and fish amidst being slapped in the face by a few good-natured waves whilst sighting.
The towns along the bank looked reasonably pretty  but rather busy - the best spots definitely being in between them.
The evening led us to Riva del Garda and an impressive firework display over the lake. A great way to say goodbye to it, ready to head to the mountains tomorrow.

ITALY DAY 9 - Rimini & Lake Garda (Sirmione)

Today started with my first Parkrun abroad! Marecchia Parkrun is possibly not Italy's most well attended (there were 19 runners, including 9 tourists and 1 volunteer!) but was super friendly and had a lovely three lap course around a park.
Although I chugged around in 25 mins or so, I really enjoyed it, despite the warmth. Less fun in the sun was the large amount of traffic between Rimini and Garda, but nevermind, I'm on holiday...
Once at Garda we headed almost straight into Sirmione, and interesting sout type section in the South of the lake. On it was situated a castle of sorts, some ruins and a fair few other tourists (it is Saturday today!). However, the water was a lovely view and the mountains looked very atmospheric, I can't wait to go there tomorrow!

ITALY DAY 8 - Lago Montedoglio & San Marino

A lazy start was had, followed by a drive to Lago Montedoglio. Here we went for an easy stroll along a track which offered more brilliant views around the local countryside, including the very blue lake!
This felt nicely off the beaten track, unlike San Marino which, once we had arrived, was quite busy. The sun beat down on us as we climbed up through the old city, but thankfully as we went into the towers, the crowds melted away.
We felt so high, with panoramic views and some medieval castle architecture to set them off perfectly. Even some handy clouds came out making our wander between the three main towers very pleasant.
Pizza was then had outside, with the view of almost the entirety of the country of San Marino.
As the city emptied, we mooched around the bizarre mix of boutique shops, weapon shops and comic stalls. I cheaply replaced my sunglasses which had snapped the previous day, before we headed back to our hotel for the reminder of the evening.

ITALY DAY 7 - Lago Trasimeno

This morning we made tracks straight for Lake Trasimeno, the first stop being a cycle hire shop where we picked up a bike each (MTB / hybrid).
After stowing some water on them, we set off around the lake on a beautiful, largely traffic-free path. This wended its way through bamboo plantations  sunflower fields and villages, with glimpses of the flat lake waters every now and then.
After about 13 miles we stopped at a cafe for lunch, before heading back along the route we had come down (I wanted to go all the way around but wasn't allowed humph).
Once we had returned the bikes we drove the other half of the lake to our hotel in San Feliciano, and after checking in headed out for a swim. The water was so warm and flat, it would have been extremely relaxing apart from the few floating weeds that were a tiny bit spikey. However, I still did a leisurely 1500m, enjoying being the only one swimming up and down that particular bit of coast.
The evening was spent dining at a rather nice restaurant, then foregoing pudding to instead have a huge ice cream (mango and chocolate). A great way to end the day!

ITALY DAY 6 - Thermal pools, Via cave and Civita de Bagnoregio

Early morning dip in the thermal pools of Bagni San Filippo - very bizarre formations in an unexpected setting.
Next onto Sorano, a small village set astride some rock next to a gorge.
Pitigliano followed - another town with a Via Cave (sunken road) which we this time walked in rather than enjoying the view just from the town.
Roads were surprisingly deep! Nice shady environment to walk in and we sampled a couple of grapes on our return journey.
Lunch in the garden of our very pretty B&B in Bagnoregio.
We then (after a siesta!) walked across the bridge to the Civita - a stunning town perched impressively on a mass of rock. The views into the valley beyond were amazing!

ITALY DAY 5 - Radda in Chianti, San Quirico D'Orcia, Montelpuciano & La Foce

The "in Chianti"s all turned out to be medical hilltop villages in Tuscany - very pretty and chilled out.
San Quirico turned out to be even more well kept, and we stopped to enjoy the ornate gardens and some focaccia for lunch.
Pudding was had in Montelpuciano in the form of the best ice lollies I've ever had (watermelon and passionfruit).
After checking in at our hotel in Chianciano Terme we went for what was perceived to be a nice evening stroll in Lucciolubella Nature Reserve.
It briefly started as such but we were soon very attractive to large numbers of mosquitoes so it was a speedy 5km stroll indeed.
The typically Tuscan views of driveways lined with tall trees amongst vineyards and golden hills were enjoyed though.
Dinner was had at a wonderful, great value, and popular sourdough pizza place, which will be hard to beat!