Tuesday, 4 October 2016

PERU & BOLIVIA Day 4 - Llachon (Lake Titicaca) to Puno

Breakfast at Felix's consisted of some deep-fried dumpling things (similar to what one might have with ackee and saltfish) and a pancake. The page cake wasn't interesting but the dumplings were fresh and delicious, and even more importantly in plentiful supply (unlike the very runny jam that came with them). I may have devoured four of these, making a bit of mess in the process as we didn't have plates. Peru doesn't seem to cater for messy eaters like myself as the napkins provided are a tiny sheet of single ply material - totally inadequate!

Once we had feasted we packed up our room and set of hiking along the dirt track to the main plaza of Llachon. This took as about half an hour, which was extremely enjoyable thanks to the scenery and morning sunlight. Reaching the plaza (and now pretty desperate for the loo - breakfast tea fail!) I was a little unsure of what do. We had been advised that this was where we could catch a "Collectivo" - minibus - to Capachica, the main town on the peninsula. Indeed when we had hiked past yesterday, so one had shouted "Collectivo?" in our direction. However, today there was very little sign of life - typical!

Waiting in the plaza, I had time to observe the campesinos (farmers/villagers) going about their lives. Small children appeared to be on their way to school, each carrying a rucksack featuring some cartoon character or other. Their elders were working the land, or shepherding animals to and fro. These animals mainly consisted of sheep and small donkeys, and all seemed very well behaved.

After fifteen or so minutes (in which time only a single vehicle had shown up) two minibuses appeared, and we boarded one for Capachica for an agreed price of 4 soles per person (about £1) along with a couple of local women and their cargo. Collectivos it turns out can be flagged en route and  by the time we had driven a couple of miles, we had been joined by at least seven more people, a number of farm tools and seeds and a very cute lamb!

Thankfully (for both my bladder and the ability to breathe) most of the "interesting" passengers also departed en route and by the time we reached Capachica an hour later there were few left on board. We paid up and were relieved to be directed straight onto a Collectivo to Puno for 7 soles (albeit without toilet break), a journey which took another hour and a half and covered familiar and very flat territory.

Back in Puno we happened upon a large supermarket where we stocked up on water (apparently local water isn't suitable for travellers' tummies) and lunched at a delightful vegan place called "the Loving Hut". For 12 soles (£3) I had a four course meal consisting of a salad buffet, vegetable soup, a noodlecake and potato and then vegan brownie for pudding. The food was excellent value and the eatery was very interesting, with lots of vegan food on display and posters on the wall touting the benefits of veganism.

A fairly relaxed afternoon was in order after the long journey, exploring Puno's cathedral and bakery offerings. For dinner, the amusingly named "Machupizza" was cheap, satisfying and pleasingly garlicy. We then headed back to our chilly room (nowhere has heating) and into bed, managing to escape death by extremely slippery parquet floor - although there had been a fair few near misses over the day....




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